Pembrokeshire Coast Challenge 2011 - DAY TWO

18th - 20th November 2011

A Marathon a Day for Three

Days along the Pembrokeshire Coast Path.

Event Organisers: 

www.votwo.co.uk

DAY - TWO

Day two dawned bright & breezy as we are bussed off to today's start (yesterdays finish) at Newgale.

Storm Beach at Newgale

Newgale Sands is backed by a large pebble wall or 'storm beach' as defence against the high tides and large waves. It is popular with holiday makers, through the summer months and in particular windsurfers, surfers and canoeists throughout the year.

On a morning like this, and in such a beautiful setting, I couldn't resist the temptation to take a few photographs while the others prepared for the start.




Newgale Sands and the beautiful coastline which was to be the opening of today's run.

Looking back along the beach into the morning sun.

Race Preparations.

After 'dibbing-out' we set off running it was a nice gentle jog along the road by the beach on a beautiful sunny morning with good company, camaraderie and anticipation for the day ahead, this illusion of 'ain't life grand' lasted about five minutes before the first brutal climb of the day.

The nice gentle warm-up didn't last long.

However if you stop and look back the view is worth it.

Newgale Sands with the sunshine gleaming off Brandy Brook.

We got off to a much better start on our journey than hundreds of seabirds earlier in September. They were left stranded on the coast at Newgale after being blown off course by high winds and heavy rain. The RSPCA rescued the Manx Shearwaters, which were migrating to Argentina from Skomer Island. More than 400 were blown back into the cliffs and into the surf, getting caught up in the rough seas. Manx Shearwaters are well designed for swimming and flying but not very good at taking off from land, normally they come out of their nesting burrows and just sort of fall off the cliffs and fly away.

Passport Control - Cwm Bach

Passports at the ready as the Sais among us cross the border back into 'Welsh Wales'. The Landsker Line somewhere near here (Landsker being an old Norse word for frontier) is the term used to describe the language boundary between the Welsh-speaking and English-speaking areas in south-west Wales. The English-speaking areas, known as ‘Little England beyond Wales’, are far from the border with England. The line is noted for being sharp, and for having moved only slightly over the past several centuries. A line of over 50 castles and strongholds were built by the Normans and Flemish to protect south Pembrokeshire from the indigenous Welsh. It is not to be found on any map.

Immigration, Customs & Passport Control cleared and we are back running along the coast path.


Cwm Bach

Evidence of grass fires give a lunar-landscape feel to Cwm Bach.

Dinas Fawr

We run past Dinas Fawr, apparently if you turn off the coast path and go along the ridge of this dramatic promontory there are precipitous drops on both sides to rocks and the sea below. Not quite in the Striding Edge category but if my mate John had been here I have no doubt that we would have gone off-piste on an EVA.

The coastline, dramatic as ever, looking over Aber-West to Solva.

The first port of call is the small sea-port town of Solva about 5 miles from the start.

Solva, an ancient fishing village, whose Viking name means 'sunny inlet' stands in a deep valley gouged out by glacial melt water. Solva claims to have the sunniest climate in Wales and is known for its spectacular sunsets. At the risk of starting a civil uprising between 'Little England' and Wales the exposed Dale peninsula at the start also claimed itself 'officially' to be the sunniest place in Wales, maybe the Solvanians class Dale as England), however I make a note to call back one afternoon with my camera and check out a Solvanian sunset for myself.

Solva, bathed as usual in sunshine.

Turbulant waters in the mouth of Solva Harbour

Further West along the coast from Solva on 18th October 1981, three tugs ran aground on the rocks. The tug Vernicos Alexia towing two sister tugs had engine problems and after fouling the towline all three were swept ashore when its anchors failed to hold.

The Rocks Between Solva and Port Y Rhaw

Click on the link below for full size photo.

http://www.shipspotting.com/gallery/photo.php?lid=1390318

© Chris Howell

It's been a long run, about 9 miles, from the start at Newgale to CP1 and I 've been going 1.3/4 hrs. I set off with great enthusiasm but slumped after Solva. I was getting concerned, if I was starting to tire now it was going to be a very very long day. The coast path from here on was remote & desolate and I knew that conditions underfoot would not be as good for running as they had been this morning.

Therefore I was pleased to arrive at CP1 and took time to eat, drink and try to replenish my energy reserves. Sometimes, as any endurance athlete will tell you, you just go through a bad patch and all that is needed is a bit of grit. As they say "when the going gets tough ......." I set off jogging.

Check Point One, Day Two at Caerfai Bay. Near St. David's

Cp2 is only about 6 miles from CP1 then it's about 10 miles to CP3 which includes some big climbs. so I take my time and eat and  drink on the fly, hopefully I will start to feel better soon.


A short distance from CP1 is St Non's Bay.

St. Non's Bay.

St. Non's Chapel & Retreat

St Non was the mother of St David, close by are the ruins of an older chapel and the Holy Well of St Non which tradition says sprang up at the birth of St David. It is regarded as one of the most sacred wells in Wales and the water is considered to have miraculous healing powers.

Trwyn Cyndderiiog

The next point of interest along the way is Port Clais but when I arrive the tide is in and the sun is in the wrong position for a good photograph so I call back a few days later and take this one.

Porth Clais

Porth Clais is a long, narrow creek, carved out by glacial meltwater 5,000 to 10,000 years ago, into which the River Alun flows, At one end is an old harbour wall and at the inner end of the harbour was St. David's Gas Works, erected in 1901 and fuelled by coal from Newgale. There are also lime-kilns which were used to produce lime for mortar and spreading on the land, farmers used to say that it 'sweetened the soil'.

In Welsh folklore the Giant Wild Boar "Twrch Trwyth " forced out of Ireland came ashore here pursued by King Arthur and his Knights. Part of a saga containing gallant knights, numerous battles and a chase across Ireland, Wales, Devon & Cornwall. (Beginning to sound like a another votwo event).

Carreg yr Esgob

Carreg yr Esgob or Bishops Rock, is a rocky islet lying off Porth Lysgi. A cave runs right through it and it is said that a bishop of St Davids, on his way to Ireland, hid from pirates by sailing his boat into the cave.

All day we've been running in a westerly direction but now we start to swing round a remote headland into Ramsey Sound and start to run north. Ramsey Sound is a narrow stretch of sea between Ramsey Island and the mainland that has a very strong tidal race. There are some infamous low black rocks just off the coast of Ramsey Island at the narrowest straight of Ramsey Sound, they are known as 'The Bitches'.



Penmaenmelyn Copper Mines

On the shore of Ramsey Sound and just opposite The Bitches, are  the remains of a copper mine now fenced off. In the 19th century, shafts and tunnels were dug into the cliffs to extract copper ore.

Looking Across Ramsey Sound To Island Ynys Cantwr and the Southern Tip of Ramsey Island.

The Bitches are a reef of rocks which stretch out into Ramsey Sound and combined with the strong tides which race through the area create quite a notorious stretch of water. The tides run north for 6 hours on the Flood and south for 6 hours on the Ebb, the tidal race can reach speeds of up to 18 knots on the reef itself. The tide speeds up as it is funnelled through the relatively narrow channel of the sound and the reef then acts as a dam. This effect is particularly spectacular during the flood tide when the water level on the south side of the rocks can be as much as 1.5 metres higher than that on the north side. This has, in recent years, made the place very popular with kayakers and has been host to both national and international kayaking championships. On the ebb tide things are much quieter and a bonus is that the porpoises feed here daily.


Across the Sound to the Northern end of Ramsey.

Ramsey Sound has been ear-marked for the development of tidal power, ‘Deltastream’  (invented by a Pembrokeshire engineer), will sit on the sea bed at the north end of Ramsey Sound and use the strong tidal currents to generate clean electricity.

I had run steady since CP1 drunk lots of energy drink and eaten lots of cheese, chocolate and the new weapon in my arsenal Kendal Mint Cake (couldn't get the turbo version of Chocolate covered Kendal Mint Cake), I was feeling better, not exactly chomping at the bit but not quite the flat battery feeling that I had felt. After 1hr 20minutes I arrived at CP2 St. David's Lifeboat Station at St Justinian set in a stunning location. It was no great surprise to find it manned by Peter Mason '2ic' who was strolling back along the coast path looking for the stragglers and I was greeted with "Don't forget to Dib", I had got off lightly considering his usual banter. 

Mrs Mason was also manning the checkpoint taking care of everybody and was just brewing up for a Scotsman 'Cuppae tea wi' three succars please, ah am fair puggled' he said as he stood there with three cheese & pickle sandwiches in one hand and a piece of chocolate brownie cake in the other. I sometimes had the feeling of being the only Sassenach in Wales

St. David's Lifeboat Station at St. Justinian serving as CP2

St. David's lifeboat station has been launching lifeboats for a 140 years. The crews have been presented with 24 awards for gallantry. The Bitches have been the scene of many shipwrecks the most notable was in 1910. The 'Gem' powered by oars and sail, had been launched to go to the aid of a vessel called the Democrat. Having successfully rescued the crew of two, the Gem was then returning when she herself got into difficulties and was wrecked on the end rock of the bitches with tragic consequences. Three of the Gem’s crew lost their lives that night and the remaining crew, along with those they had rescued, were left clinging to the reef through a stormy night until rescued the following day.

St. Justinian was a Breton nobleman who settled on the island of Ramsey as a hermit in the 6th century. He was visited by St. David who was so impressed with his holiness he made him Abbot of St David's Cathedral. However, Justinian became disillusioned with the poor attitude of the monks at St David’s and took himself back to the remote Ramsey Island to establish a more holy spiritual community. Legend has it that he was beheaded by his disgruntled servants or monks fed up with his strict regime, apparently he picked up his head and carrying it under his arm crossed Ramsey Sound by walking on the water.

Portselau

It is a long way from CP2 along Whitesands Bay then St. David's Head and then a remote section of coast to CP3 at Abereiddy but I seemed to have got over the worst of my slump, if only you could buy bottled grit. The first landmark is Portselau just before the big beach at Whitesands, when the tide is out you can walk on the sands to Whitesands but our route is along the cliffs.

Whitesands is a very popular beach for families, surfers and walkers, I don't stop but on the climb out to St. David's Head I stop and look back for a photo. It is said that St. Patrick had his vision to convert Ireland to Christianity here and set sail from the bay in the 5th century.  At very low tide the remains of an ancient, submerged forest can be seen on the beach, consisting of stumps of birch, fir, hazel and oak. The remains of animals have also been found including parts of an auroch, (a type of large wild cattle, ancestor of domestic cattle but now extinct), a red deer antler and a brown bear jaw.


Whitesands Bay

Looking south there are two headlands jutting out into the sea, Trwynhwrddyn, The Ram's Nose(far) and Stacks (near)

St David’s head is the southern limit of the Irish Sea in Wales and marks the southern extremity of Cardigan Bay. It was described in a Roman survey of the known world in 140 AD by Roman astronomer, mathematician and cartographer Claudius Ptolemy, he describes the headland as the Octapitarum promontory, i.e. the 'Promontory of the Eight Perils', a testament to its wild nature, needless to say there are magnificent views in all directions

The story of Ptolemy is fascinating he embraced the generally accepted theory that the Earth did not move and was located at the centre of the universe. Ptolemy is known for the book he wrote explaining the motions of the planets and stars, entitled the "Almagest".
The ‘Ptolemaic System’ of the universe gave an acceptable description of planetary motion and lasted for more than 1,000 years. He catalogued over 1,000 stars along with the constellations and the legends that went along with them and the traditional Greek and Roman names he gave them are still in use today.
Besides his very influential work as an astronomer Ptolemy was a renowned cartographer hence his description for St. Davids Head. His other famous book the "Geographia" contained detailed maps of the world, that served travellers for hundreds of years. Even Christopher Columbus used his maps in 1492 when he discovered the Americas.

Fourteen miles out to sea is 'The Smalls Lighthouse' it is one of the most remote offshore lighthouses in the UK and home to an extraordinary story which brought about a change in the way lighthouses were run. Thomas Howell and Thomas Griffith, were known to quarrel, and so when Griffith died in a freak accident Howell feared that he might be suspected of murder if he discarded the body into the sea. As the body began to decompose Howell built a makeshift coffin and lashed it to the outside of the lighthouse. In a storm winds blew the box apart and the body’s arm fell within view of the window in such a way that it seemed as though it was beckoning to him. Working alone and with the decaying corpse of his former colleague outside Howell managed to keep the lamp lit. When Howell was finally relieved from the lighthouse the effect that the situation had had on him was said to be so extreme that some of his friends did not recognise him. From then on the lighthouse authority changed protocol and three men were always stationed on lighthouses.

Penberry - Wheres Wally?

After St. David's Head the next landmark is Penberry it looks like we have a mountain to climb but it's actually only 574 feet high and we don't even go over the summit but at 20 miles into today's run its a tough climb.

Pembrokeshire Wild Pony

 As I run along the coast path I startle a wild pony or I am startled by a wild pony, they are quite common in the area.

Abereiddi and Checkpoint 3

The miles pass by and all of a sudden we are spit-out on to a small road dropping down into Aberreiddi Bay and CP3. Abereiddi and CP3 is a major milestone for me as I am having a bad day, I know I have cracked it when I reach CP3 because its only 2 miles from here to the finish at Porthgain and I realise that I if I run all the way I might finish in under 6 hours so I don't waste anytime at CP3 not even a photo I just press on with my mate 'Wally'.

Porthgain is a sheltered port that in the 19th century was home to a thriving slate and brick industry, the remains of which are still visible today including a brick works and worker's cottages. The mining began in 1890 employing 200 men and boys and the town eventually became a crucial part of Britain’s building boom. Many buildings, even as far away as London and Liverpool have Porthgain granite in them. Today, the industries of Porthgain are fishing and tourism.



Porthgain & The Finish of Day Two.

I am pleased to finish today it's been tough, very tough, but I manage 5hrs 54minutes. It's going colder now and I find my kit bag and change into some warm dry clothing before indulging in 'Mrs Mason's Homemade Soup' I tell her that she should 'can it' and sell it, nectar after nearly 28 miles. The days are getting shorter now and it's not that far from dusk, I notice the Honda generator and lights are set-up at the finish  votwo as usual well prepared. I was just glad not to be negotiating those cliff paths in the dark.


Footnote!
A few days later I have the opportunity to checkout one of Solva's acclaimed sunsets:

Day's End



Solva's Arhipelago